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Big
Wave Surfers
Big
wave surfing is a discipline in surfing where riders
paddle into waves which are at least 20 feet high,
on surf boards known as "guns" or "rhino
chasers". The bigger the wave, the faster it
travels, and the bigger the surf board needed to catch
it. A larger board allows a rider to paddle fast enough
to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more
stable, but it also limits their maneuverability.
This
discipline in surfing was the origin of the cross-over
sport known as tow-in surfing. While many riders participate
in both sports, they remain very distinct activities.
Tow-In Surfing is only for the most experienced of
big wave surfers.
Hazards
of big wave surfing
In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers
down 20 to 50 feet below the surface. Once they stop
spinning around, they have to quickly regain their
equilibrium and figure out which way is up. They may
have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface for
a breath of air before the next wave hits them. Additionally,
the water pressure at a depth of 20-50 feet can be
strong enough to rupture one's eardrums. Strong currents
and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer
into a reef or even the floor, which can result in
severe injuries or even death.
One
of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held
down by two or more consecutive waves without the
chance to reach the surface for air. Surviving a triple
hold-down is extremely difficult.
Despite
these hazards, very few big-wave surfers have ever
died in the practice of the sport, with the notable
exceptions of Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks,
Todd Chesser who died at Alligator Rock on the North
Shore of Oahu on February 14th, 1997, and Donnie Solomon
died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay.
Notable big wave surfing spots
Waimea Bay, Hawaii
Mavericks, California
Ghost Trees, California
The Wedge, California
Teahupoo, Tahiti
Jaws (beach), Hawaii
Shipstern, Tasmania, Australia
The Outer Banks, North Carolina
Noted big wave surfers
Titus (Nihi) Kinimaka
Mike Parsons
Laird Hamilton
Eddie Aikau
Ken Bradshaw
Jeff Clark
Shane Dorian
Mark Foo
Greg Noll
Milton and Michael Willis
Ross Clarke-Jones
Cheyne Horan
Koby Abberton
Mark
Visser
Big wave surfing movies
Riding Giants (2004)
Billabong Odyssey (2004)
Biggest Wednesday - Condition Black (2001)
Raleigh Thompson
References
Matt Warshaw: Maverick's: the story of big-wave surfing,
Chronicle Books, ISBN 0-8118-2652-X
Bruce Jenkins 'North Shore Chronicles' (Credit:
Wikipedia).
Koby
Abberton
Mark
Visser
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